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Salt & Wind Travel

The Italian Riviera: An Expert Guide to A Coastal Gem

If you’ve ever Googled Italy, Italy beaches, or even opened Instagram under the hashtag “Italy,” you’ve seen pictures of the Italian Riviera. But, you may not have recognized that it was the Italian Riviera or even know that Italy has a Riviera! 

When I first moved to Italy in 2005, I had no idea where or what the Italian Riviera was. As I traveled around, backpacking up the Tuscan coast into Liguria, I honestly didn’t understand what an absolute gem I was uncovering.

From the crystal clear, blue-green waters dotted with yachts to the multicolored houses and stunning hiking trails to the incredible Ligurian cuisine (absolutely in my top three favorites of Italian regional cuisine), the Italian Riviera begs to be explored.

Italian Riviera
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When and if most people decide to explore the Italian Riviera, they head to the uber-famous Cinque Terre. But the coast has much more to offer that is just as beautiful and less crowded. In my experience, you will have a better trip with a more authentic Italian vibe if you consider other places like Camogli, Sestri Levante, Porto Venere, or Lerici. 

After numerous years living in Italy and owning a beach property just thirty minutes from the Italian Riviera, I can honestly say it’s one of my top three Italian destinations without hesitation. There is so much to do, explore, and see; you don’t want to miss adding this area of Italy to your trip.

In this guide, I have compiled my years of experience as an Italy trip planner and Italian resident to explain what and where the Italian Riviera is, the area’s history, when to go, and how best to get there. 

Aerial photo of northern side of Portofino Italy coastline

What and Where is the Italian Riviera?

The Italian Riviera, or Riviera Ligure in Italian, is a stunning stretch of Mediterranean coastline in northwest Italy in Liguria. It spans from the French border near Menton and Ventimiglia south to the Gulf of la Spezia, which borders the Tuscan Coast.

The Italian Riviera is traditionally divided into two sections: the Riviera di Ponente (Western Riviera) and the Riviera di Levante (Eastern Riviera), with the city of Genoa in the middle of the two.

Riviera di Ponente extends west from Genoa toward the French border, known for its more expansive sandy beaches, more local vibes, and elegant resort towns like Sanremo. Riviera di Levante stretches from Genoa southeast to La Spezia and is home to the oh-so-famous cliffside towns of Cinque Terre and Portofino.

Nestled between the Ligurian Sea and the rugged Apennines and Alps mountains, Liguria is famed for its charming seaside towns, dramatic cliffs, and an old-world elegance that has captivated artists, writers, and travelers for centuries. 

History of the Italian Riviera

The Liguria region has been an important maritime hub since ancient Roman times. It flourished under the Republic of Genoa, which lasted from the 11th century until the 18th century.

By the late 19th and early 20th centuries, European aristocrats and writers, including Ernest Hemingway and Lord Byron, sought refuge in the Riviera’s balmy climate and picturesque landscapes. With their famous residencies, the Italian Riviera was quickly launched into international and lasting fame. While most Americans consider the Amalfi Coast towns the pinnacle of Italian seaside glam, the Italian Riviera is just as chic and noteworthy!

When to Visit the Italian Riviera?

The best time to visit the Italian Riviera depends on your preferences and where you plan to visit. Peak tourist season runs from late May to early September when warm temperatures make it ideal for beachgoers. However, this period also brings significant crowds. 

As a mom with two small kids, I would not venture to the busy towns (say, Cinque Terre or Portofino) during that time. It’s very crowded, trains are packed like sardine cans, and it can overwhelm even a seasoned traveler, let alone little ones. 

Depending on your crowd tolerance, it could be manageable if you go early in the day or are a solo traveler or smaller group. If you’re planning to visit Cinque Terre explicitly, the best time to go is the shoulder seasons, Spring (March-May) and early autumn (September-October). These months offer a fantastic balance of mild weather, fewer tourists, and more affordable accommodations. 

I would save the peak season for the slightly less-frequented towns, like Alassio, Noli, Chiavari, or Santa Margherita Ligure. Don’t visit the smaller coastal towns in winter because many will be closed, and essential services (buses, pharmacies, shops) may be challenging to navigate.

Trains In Italy

How to Get to The Italian Riviera

Depending on your starting point, there are many ways to reach the Italian Riviera. Just a word to the wise: I have driven and taken the train throughout the Riviera, and I recommend the train. It’s fast, reliable, relatively efficient, and maximizes your time because you never have to worry about traffic or parking.

By Train – My Favorite Option

Italy’s efficient train network makes reaching the Riviera easy, especially from major cities in Italy like Milan and Florence or from Nice, France. The main railway line follows the coast, which is scenic and enjoyable for people of all ages. Little kids especially will delight in watching the blue coast roll by. It’s one of the only train rides I’ve been on where I’ve seen adults and children sit silently to soak in the unbelievable views.

From Nice, France

Some of our clients like to do a trip that covers both the Italian Riviera and the French Riviera. The easiest way to get between the two is by train from Nice. To do so, take a TER regional train from Nice to Ventimiglia, the first Italian stop (50 minutes).  Then, you can take a regional or intercity train from Ventimiglia to your final destination.

From Milan

From Milano Centrale, take a high-speed train (Frecciarossa or Intercity) to Genoa (1.5 hours+). Then, continue along the coast with regional or Intercity trains, depending on your destination.

From Florence

From Florence’s Santa Maria Novella train station, you can take a direct train to La Spezia (2 hours) or Genoa (3 hours). Then, connect to a regional train, bus, or private driver, depending on your destination.

By Car 

Driving along the Ligurian coast can be breathtaking as you drive past vineyards and down palm-tree-lined promenades, but it is also highly challenging due to narrow, winding cliffside roads. 

You will also find parking extremely limited, oftentimes expensive, and challenging to navigate. One time, when I was visiting the adorable town of Bonassola, we recruited a local to take our car, drive it to his home, and park it in his private yard about 5 miles away. 

This was not an official service, and we agreed to give him a two-hour warning before we needed it again and pay him generously for his trouble. Thankfully, I am fluent in Italian. He was an honest man because, in the end, our car was fine, but boy, was it scary handing over the keys! For reasons like this, a vehicle is not my recommended way to visit the Riviera!

Insider Tip: Look out for restricted traffic zones (ZTL). Look for parking garages outside town centers or use park-and-ride options. If you drive in a restricted zone, expect a ticket, as there are automated ticket-issuing machines.

By Plane 

If traveling from abroad, the nearest airports are:

Genoa

Genoa Cristoforo Colombo Airport (GOA) is the most central airport, with many flights from major Italian and European cities. Genoa is also the largest city in Liguria, with plenty of enjoyable urban bustle.

Nice

Nice Côte d’Azur Airport (NCE) is an international hub, so this airport is ideal for reaching the Western Riviera. You will find grand scenery and easy connections to many other Italian cities, like Florence, Naples, Bari, and Palermo.

Pisa

Pisa International Airport (PSA) is probably the most convenient for the Eastern Riviera, especially if visiting the Cinque Terre villages.

Milan

Milan Malpensa (MXP) & Linate (LIN) airports offer more flight options than the other locations. Linate will require more trains or buses to visit the Italian Riviera, but it may provide more connections to smaller Italian towns and cities. 

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Frequently Asked Questions About The Italian Riviera

The Italian Riviera refers to the coastal strip that lies between the south of France and Tuscany, stretching from the border with France to Capo Corvo, near La Spezia. It is part of the Liguria region of Italy. This picturesque coastline is known for its mild climate, colorful seaside towns, and beautiful beaches, making it a popular destination for tourists and locals alike.

The Italian Riviera is a sought-after destination for several reasons:

  • Scenic Beauty: The region offers breathtaking views of the crystal-clear blue waters of the Mediterranean Sea, complemented by lush hills and charming beaches.
  • Cultural Richness: Towns like Portofino, Cinque Terre, and Genoa are rich in history and culture, offering visitors a chance to explore historic sites, unique architecture, and local traditions.
  • Culinary Delights: Liguria, the region in which the Riviera is located, is famous for its cuisine, particularly seafood dishes, fresh pesto, and focaccia. The area also produces excellent wines and olive oils.
  • Recreational Activities: From hiking on the famous trails of Cinque Terre to sailing, swimming, and enjoying the chic resorts, there’s no shortage of activities to indulge in.

Accessing the Italian Riviera is relatively straightforward, with various options depending on your starting point:

  • By Air: The nearest major airport is Genoa Cristoforo Colombo Airport, which has both domestic and international flights. For those coming from further away, Milan and Nice (France) are viable alternatives with broader flight selections.
  • By Train: The Italian Riviera is well connected by train, with frequent regional and Intercity services from major Italian cities. Towns along the Riviera, especially those in Cinque Terre, are easily accessible by the coastal railway line.
  • By Car: Driving along the Italian Riviera offers stunning scenic routes. The A12 motorway runs parallel to the coast, providing easy access to the larger Riviera towns and connections to smaller roads leading to the coast.
what is pesto sauce

What Is Pesto Sauce?

Whether strolling along the pastel-hued streets of Santa Margherita Ligure, hiking the dramatic coastal trails, or simply soaking up the Mediterranean sun, the Italian Riviera offers an unforgettable Italian escape.

But no visit to this region is complete without tasting its most famous culinary contribution: pesto. Born in the port city of Genoa, this fragrant sauce made with fresh basil, pine nuts, garlic, Parmesan, and olive oil is a staple of Ligurian cuisine. To learn more about its history, how it’s traditionally made, and the best ways to enjoy it, check out our guide on what is pesto sauce.

pasta with pesto potatoes and green beans

Classic Ligurian Recipes

Looking for other classic Italian recipes? Here are a few of our readers’ favorites from the region of Liguria!

Liguria Travel Guide

Liguria Travel Guide

Are you considering traveling to Genoa and the Liguria region in real life? Check out our free Liguria Travel Guide for our best travel tips, recipes, and articles.

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