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Salt & Wind Travel

What is Pesto Sauce? Decoding the Italian Classic

Pesto is clearly among everyone’s favorite foods. It finds its way on all sorts of dishes, from panini and a grain bowl to zucchini noodles and pesto pizza. But precisely what is pesto sauce?

Pesto has long been one of my favorite Italian pasta sauces because it’s easy to make and so adaptable. I learned to make pesto on my first trip to Italy (over 20 years ago!), and it was love at first bite.

what is pesto sauce
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I ordered it when I first went to Genoa, the capital of Liguria, where the most famous pesto is from. And now, when I plan Italy travel itineraries for clients, I always direct them to the best local pesto, be it Peso Genovese, Pesto di Pomodori Secchi, or Pesto alla Trapenese.

Pesto is a staple in my kitchen, and I’ve made all sorts of variations: with walnuts, pecans, pine nuts, almonds, subbed basil for zucchini, carrots, tomatoes, and even used olives once. But what is pesto, where does it come from, and how has it evolved?

Here, we will explore pesto’s history and our favorite types of pesto to try.

Mortar and pestle with pesto being made

What Is Pesto and How Is It Made?

Pesto is a raw sauce from Italy that is traditionally made by grinding fresh ingredients into a paste. While classic basil pesto, Pesto all Genovese, is the best known, numerous variations exist. If an ingredient can be crushed and mixed with oil, it can be made into a pesto. 

The word “pesto” derives from the Italian verb pestare, meaning “to pound” or “to crush,” referencing the mortar and pestle historically used to prepare this sauce. Though modern cooks often use food processors or a blender, the traditional method is still cherished for producing a superior texture and flavor.

The key ingredients of a classic pesto are an herb or vegetable (see sundried tomatoes below) mixed with garlic, nuts (differing depending on the region of Italy), and extra virgin olive oil. The ingredients are combined to create a fragrant, versatile sauce often served as a pasta sauce but other times with meats or spread on bread as an antipasto. 

{Focaccia Di Recco} Thin Crust Cheese-Stuffed Focaccia Recipe

The Origins of Pesto

Now that you know what is pesto sauce, let’s get into the origins. The traditional green pesto we all know and love originated on the northwest coast of Italy in the region of Liguria (home to the Italian Riviera). This coastal area, particularly the city of Genoa, is where Pesto alla Genovese— the most iconic form of pesto—was born. 

Pesto is decidedly Ligurian today, but the earliest documented mention dates back to the Roman era. A sauce called “moretum” was made by crushing herbs, garlic, and cheese. That version of pesto prevailed until the style we recognize today took shape in the Middle Ages. Pesto reached the form we all know and love in the 19th century.

The first written recipe for Pesto alla Genovese appeared in Giovanni Battista Ratto’s 1863 cookbook, La Cuciniera Genovese. This recipe highlighted Genovese basil as the star ingredient, accompanied by garlic, cheese, and olive oil. 

Person plating pesto with trofie pasta

Five Classic Types of Italian Pesto

Across Italy, regional ingredients are blended to form a pesto sauce, many without basil. Now that you know what is pesto sauce, here are five types to try:

Pesto Genovese

Origin: Liguria

Pesto alla Genovese is more than just a sauce; it’s a cultural symbol of Liguria. While any basil pesto can be called “pesto” to earn the designation “Genovese,” the pesto must adhere to specific guidelines. The fresh basil leaves must be Basilico Genovese DOP, a variety grown in the Ligurian region, prized for its small, tender leaves and delicate aroma. The cheese is often Parmigiano-Reggiano, and the olive oil must be extra virgin, preferably Ligurian.

Pesto alla Genovese was traditionally made with a marble mortar and wooden pestle. This labor-intensive method allows the basil to release its essential oils without overheating, which can happen with electric appliances. You won’t soon forget if you can find it made that way (like at the Genovese institution, Il Genovese). The result is a creamy, aromatic sauce with herbaceous, nutty, and cheesy flavors.

Pesto alla Genovese is unique because of its connection to the land. Every ingredient reflects the region’s geography and traditions, from the terraced hills where basil is cultivated to the ancient olive groves.

Traditional pesto alla Genovese is often served with local pasta types like trofie, corzetti, or trenette, like in this pasta with pesto potatoes and green beans! My favorite way to enjoy pesto is smothered on fresh focaccia and topped with cheese, a delicacy known as Focaccia di Recco that originates in the Ligurian seaside town of Recco.

Plate of pasta with salsa di noci walnut pesto

Pesto (or Salsa) di Noci (Walnut Pesto)

Origin: Liguria

Originating from Liguria’s inland areas, salsa di noci places or walnut pesto has walnuts as the star ingredient. Unlike traditional pesto, this version often incorporates cream or milk to create a velvety texture. Cloves of garlic, Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese, and a drizzle of olive oil complete the mix.

Pesto di noci is especially popular in autumn and winter when walnuts are harvested. Its creamy richness makes it a comforting choice for heartier pasta dishes like pansotti, a Ligurian stuffed pasta. Our favorite salsa di noci in Liguria can be found at Trattoria da Pezzi in Santa Margherita Ligure.

Pesto di Rucola (Arugula Pesto)

Origin: Central and Northern Italy

For those who enjoy a peppery kick, pesto di rucola offers a delightful twist. Arugula, known as rucola in Italian, replaces basil as the main ingredient. This pesto includes garlic, walnuts or pecans, Parmigiano-Reggiano, and olive oil. The arugula’s slightly bitter and spicy notes create a bold and vibrant sauce.

Pesto di rucola is particularly popular in central and northern Italy, where arugula grows abundantly. It pairs wonderfully with delicate pasta types like tagliolini or pasta dishes with seafood 

My favorite way to enjoy pesto di rucola is on a pizza, and the best we have had is at Mauro Uliassi’s restaurant in Senigallia on the Adriatic Riviera.

Pesto di Pomodori Secchi (Sun-Dried Tomato Pesto)

Origin: Sicily and Southern Italy

Hailing from southern Italy and Sicily, pesto di pomodori secchi, or pesto rosso, is a rich and tangy alternative to the classic green pesto. This version swaps basil for sun-dried tomatoes, rehydrated and blended with garlic, almonds or pine nuts, Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese, and olive oil. The result is a deep red sauce with a sweet, slightly smoky flavor that pairs beautifully with pasta, bruschetta, or grilled meats.

The origins of this pesto reflect the Mediterranean tradition of preserving summer produce for the colder months. Sun-dried tomatoes’ concentrated flavor adds a robust character, making this pesto a favorite in regions like Sicily and Calabria.

My favorite pesto di pomodori secchi is at Rosso Veneziano, which is surprisingly in a restaurant in Tuscany. Their seafood-forward menu changes frequently, but it’s worth stopping if they have their pesto rosso on the menu when you go.

Pesto alla Trapanese

Origin: Sicily

Sicily’s most famous contribution to the pesto family is pesto alla Trapanese. The origins of pesto alla Trapanese trace back to the port city of Trapani (a place famed for its Sicilian sea salt), where sailors brought back basil from Genoa. The locals adapted the recipe to include their regional ingredients, such as almonds and tomatoes.

The result is a bright, slightly chunky sauce that captures the essence of Sicilian cuisine. It’s often served with busiate, a traditional corkscrew-shaped pasta. We love Salamureci in Trapani, Sicily, if you want to try the best of the best.

Tips To Make Pesto

If you can’t get to Italy to try these pesto sauces anytime soon, we’ve got you covered. You can make a super traditional Italian pesto like this creamy pesto sauce.

Make Homemade Pesto

Why is it better than store-bought pesto sauce from your local grocery store? Look, we always have pesto in our cupboard if we need a meal in a pinch. But nothing is quite like the fresh, herbal vibes you get from a homemade batch. 

Make A Couple Batches

We usually make a few rounds of pesto at once and freeze the rest to have it on hand. To do so, divide it into ice cube trays and cover it with olive oil. Then, when it’s frozen, you can remove them from the trays and store them frozen in an airtight container for months. If you want to make pesto pasta or another treat, pop it out and let it defrost. 

Use Authentic Ingredients

Especially in the case of classic basil pesto, try to find ingredients from Liguria (especially the olive oil!) if you can. Also, if you have a choice, avoid pine nuts from China, which tend to be more bitter than those from Italy.

Never Heat Pesto

And remember, you never want to heat pesto sauce, or it will ruin its fresh flavors. Instead, add it to warm things (like hot pasta noodles or the top of a just-cooked pizza). Or, put a thin layer of water in the bottom of a pasta pot, warm it up, then remove it from the heat, add in the pasta and pesto sauce and stir until warm. 

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Classic Italian Recipes

Looking for other classic Italian recipes? Here are a few of our readers’ favorites from the region of Liguria (just like this creamy pesto sauce is)!

Liguria Travel Guide

Liguria Travel Guide

Are you considering traveling to Genoa and the Liguria region in real life? Check out our free Liguria Travel Guide for our best travel tips, recipes, and articles.

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Did you know we’re also a boutique travel agency specializing in Italy travel planning? If you’re looking to plan one of the best trips to Italy, our Italy trip planner services are here to help you plan your perfect itinerary.


Photo Credit: Pesto Arugula Pizza By Andrew Cebulka; Pesto preparing By Martí Sans; Pesto pasta with basil leaf By Studio Serra;Pasta with walnut sauce By Davide Illini

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