Torta Della Nonna | Tuscan Grandmother’s Cake

It was our Italian-ified take on high tea, where tea was replaced by espresso and biscuits were replaced by Torta della Nonna. I don’t know exactly when it started but, over the time I lived in Florence, when my mother would visit our afternoon ritual was to order a short espresso and a slice of the lemon-custard cake known as Torta della Nonna.

Our regular haunts were the historic Florentine cafes of Gilli or Rivoire because they both had great service, amazing views, and, of course, delicious takes on the cake. We did so on a such regular basis that before we’d even sit, the waiter (who was smitten with my mother) would head directly to the pastry case to plate a slice for us. With time we kicked the habit, but we still order it whenever we’re traveling in Italy together and see it on the menu.

Why You’ll Love This Recipe

Since this recipe was invented by a Nonna (grandmother) I usually consider it part of my comfort food collection, because it brings me warmth, as if I was in my grandmother’s home. It takes me back to my childhood and visiting her. I hope you will experience these warm memories as I do when eating this tuscan cake.

Recipe Ingredients

These are the ingredients that you’ll need to make this recipe:

For The Italian Pasta Frolla Dough:

• All-purpose flour 
• Powdered sugar 
• Baking powder
• Kosher salt
• Egg yolks
• Unsalted butter

For The Pastry Cream Ricotta Filling:

• Granulated sugar
• Cornstarch
• Kosher salt
• Egg yolks
• Whole milk or heavy cream
• Pure vanilla extract or 1 vanilla bean
• Whole milk ricotta cheese
• Lemon zest
• Pine nuts

How To Make This Recipe

These are the instructions that you’ll need to follow to make this recipe:

1. Make The Italian Pasta Frolla Dough: Combine the all-purpose flour with powdered sugar, baking powder, and salt in a food processor fit with an S blade. Pulse several times until the ingredients are broken up and evenly mixed.
   Add the butter and mix on high until everything is evenly broken up. Beat 2 of the egg yolks until they’re smooth then add to the dough and pulse until it comes together as a ball. Turn the dough onto a lightly floured surface and knead it a few times until it’s evenly combined.
   Shape it into a 1-inch thick rectangle then divide the rectangle so you have one piece that’s about 1/3 of the dough and a second piece with about 2/3 of the dough.
   Form them both into flat discs, place them in resealable plastic bags and refrigerate so the dough can relax, at least 30 minutes and up to 3 days.
2. Make The Pastry Cream Ricotta Filling: While the dough rests, start to make the pastry cream. Whisk together the sugar with cornstarch and kosher salt in a medium saucepan. Whisk together the whole milk and the remaining egg yolks in a glass measuring cup until well combined.
   While constantly whisking, slowly pour the milk mixture into the pan until it is all evenly combined then bring the mixture to a boil over medium heat. Whisk frequently until the mixture starts to thicken up.
   While continuing to whisk, let the mixture boil for 30 seconds to 1 minute them immediately remove it from the heat and stir in the vanilla. Transfer to a clean glass or metal bowl, cover with plastic wrap, pressing it directly onto surface of cream to prevent skin from forming.
   If you want the cream to cool more quickly, set the bowl over an ice bath and leave to cool to room temperature, at least 1 hour. Once the mixture is cool refrigerate it at least 30 minutes and up to 3 days before using.
3. To Roll Out The Italian Pasta Frolla Dough: Meanwhile, finish the dough. Start by preparing an 8-inch cake pan or springform pan by covering it with butter and flour — tap out any excess flour that doesn’t adhere. Place the springform pan in the refrigerator until ready to line it with dough
   Take the larger piece of dough and place it on a lightly floured surface and, using a lightly floured rolling pin, roll it to a circle a few inches wider than the prepared pan, about 11 inches in diameter. Wrap the dough onto your rolling pin and unroll it onto the prepared pan, carefully pressing it into the bottom and up the sides of the pan.
   Use the back of a dry measuring cup to smooth the surface of the dough and help it adhere. Remove the excess pastry using a sharp paring knife and, with a fork, dock the surface of the dough. Set the lined pan in the refrigerator until your cream is cooled and you’re ready to proceed.
   Meanwhile, roll out the smaller piece of dough to an 10-inch circle — keep it on a cutting board or flat plate in the refrigerator until you’re ready to proceed.
4. Assemble The Torta Della Nonna: Once the pastry cream is totally cool, soak the nuts in water for 10 minutes then drain, heat the oven to 375°F and arrange a rack in the middle. Place a rimmed baking sheet on the bottom rack as the buttery crust might drip a bit while baking!
   Meanwhile, add the lemon zest and the ricotta and stir to just combine. Turn the ricotta pastry cream into the prepared pan and drape the second piece of dough over the filling. Create a seal at the cake’s edge by pinching the edges of the crust closed and, again using a sharp knife, remove the excess pastry crust.
   Make an egg wash by beating the an egg yolk with a few tablespoons of milk or water then brush it across the top of the dough. Scatter the soaked and drained nuts on the top and gently push them into to make sure they adhere. Bake at 350°F until the top is golden throughout.
5. Serve The Torta Della Nonna: Remove the cake from the oven and set aside to cool to room temperature before serving. Run a butter knife around the inside of the springform pan to separate the crust from the pan then remove the pan’s detachable ring. Top with a dusting of powdered sugar just before serving.

What Is Torta Della Nonna?

Possibly tied with cantucci e vin santo (aka almond biscotti and sweet dessert wine) as the most ubiquitous dessert in Tuscany, Torta Della Nonna is one of the most classic Tuscan desserts you’ll come across when you travel to Italy. Made by topping a shortbread crust with a lemon and vanilla pastry cream and a smattering of nuts (sometimes pine nuts other times almonds) and a veil of powdered sugar, it’s simple in its execution but delicious in taste. I like it because, like so many other classic Italian desserts, it’s subtle, not too sweet, and relatively easy.

Origin Of Torta Della Nonna

The translastion of Torta Della Nonna, is “Grandmother’s cake” but, beyond the name and the fact it’s from Tuscany, not much else is certain about this dessert. The provinces of Arezzo and Florence have a long-standing rivalry and apparently that extends to this dessert too because both claim to have created it. And, even though the name implies it’s a classic recipe passed down from grandma, it’s believed that the recipe actually came from the restaurant world. What is for sure is that the combo of pastry, custard, and pine nuts have been around since the 1800s.

Tips To Making Torta Della Nonna

At first glance, this recipe may seem like a lot of work because there are a few different steps, but all you’re really doing is making a pastry crust and a pastry cream. So, once you make this a couple times, it will feel as familiar as your favorite cookie recipe and won’t require much attention. And, there are a few things you can do to make it even easier on yourself.

• Make It Ahead: Make both the pastry dough and the pastry cream up to 3 days ahead of time and then simply add the ricotta and finish assembling and baking the cake the day you want to make it.
• Line The Pan Ahead: To do even more ahead, line the pan with the larger disc of dough and then cover and refrigerate or freeze it until you’re ready to proceed.
• Use Store bought Pie Dough: Technically, this dough — known as pasta frolla in Italian — is not exactly the same as pie crust because it has baking powder and eggs added. However, you could make it a little easier on yourself by using a high quality uncooked store bought pie crust to line the pan.
• Make Our No Fuss Pastry Cream: Borrowing a technique we learned over on Martha Stewart, the pastry cream in this recipe is way easier than the traditional method. Also, it’s gluten free so, as long as you use gluten free flour in the crust, this becomes a totally gluten free dessert!
• Save Those Egg Whites: You’ll end up with 11 egg whites at the end of this recipe. Go ahead and use them to make egg white scrambles or use them to make this Elderflorwer Strawberry Parfait or this Baked Chicken Parm.

Variations On Torta Della Nonna

The standard recipe for Torta Della Nonna is pretty much the same but, like with so many Italian recipes, there are still a few variations. While the most common version is made with just pastry cream as the filling, I’m partial to adding ricotta to the filling. Also, while you’ll see it topped with both pine nuts and almonds, I’m partial to the slightly bittersweet flavor of pine nuts. Finally, there is also a chocolate version of this recipe called torta del nonno––meaning, “Grandfather’s tart” but it’s less common than this one!

Now go stock up on all your cooking essentials, then head into the kitchen, make this, and share it with us by tagging @saltandwind and #swsociety on social!