All I recall is that is was foggy, grey, and windy. That’s how my life in San Francisco started – me looking at the glass half empty. It’s not that I had anything against it but I wasn't planning to stay long so I wasn't taking it seriously. But then I started going to the farmers markets and hiking in the redwoods then wine tasting at a moment's notice and it happened. I started falling in love with San Francisco. I don't recall how but I do recall the moment I realized it had happend. It was right around Valentine's Day and I was noshing on Dungeness crab at Swan Oyster Depot and realized I was head over heels for my adopted city.
I no longer live full time in SF and miss this time of year when the Dungeness season is high and everyone everywhere is on a mission to get their fill. My all-time favorite pairing with crab is citrus and, if I had to choose just one it'd be Meyer lemons. So, if I got my way this Valentine's I'd head up north and sit down to a meal of bubbly and crab but knowing that's likely not happening, I'm planning to cook up this homemade ravioli with a garlicky, lemony cream sauce. It's not a trip to San Francisco but it'll more than do.
minced and divided
divided plus more for garnish
(preferably Dungeness) picked over to remove any shells
plus more for garnish
Melt 1 tablespoon of the butter in a medium nonstick frying pan over medium heat. Add one third of the minced shallots and cook until just translucent; remove from the heat and let cool. Stir in the crabmeat, 1 tablespoon of the chives, all the parsley, and 1 teaspoon of the mustard; season with salt and pepper. Taste and adjust seasoning as desired. Divide the crabmeat filling into 24 equal portions.
On a clean dry work surface, use a pasty brush to lightly brush 8 wonton wrappers with water. Place 1 portion (about 2 teaspoons) of the crab filling in the center of each wonton. Cover with a second wonton wrapper, press out any air pockets and seal tightly. Using a 3-inch round or fluted biscuit cutter, trim the excess dough. Transfer the ravioli in a single layer to a baking sheet lined with plastic wrap. Repeat with the remaining wrappers and filling.
Filled ravioli can be assembled and frozen on the baking sheet ahead of time. Once frozen, transfer ravioli to an airtight container and keep frozen until ready to cook, up to one month.
Melt the remaining 2 tablespoons of butter in a medium nonstick frying pan. Add the remaining shallot and cook over medium heat, stirring, until soft. Stir in the remaining 2 tablespoons of chives and all the cream and bring to a simmer over medium-high heat. Stir in the thinly sliced garlic, remaining mustard, and lemon rind and simmer over low heat until sauce coats the back of a spoon, about 8 to 10 minutes. Remove from heat, season with salt and pepper and set aside.
Bring a large pot of heavily salted water to a boil. Lower heat to medium-high then cook the ravioli in batches (about 8 to 10 at a time) in simmering water until they start to rise to the surface, about 1 to 2 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, gently remove the ravioli to a colander to drain. Add the drained ravioli to the cream and reheat, stirring gently, over low heat. As needed, add a few tablespoons of the cooking water to help the sauce coat the pasta. Serve immediately garnished with lemon zest and chives.
Food styling and photography by Aida Mollenkamp